|
|
As Seen In |
From Oblivion to Bliss BY Bruce L Brode "Grand Hydro" (Published in the January 1997 Brews and News)
Brew Style of the Month: Porter It started life before 1700 as a mixture of different lauter runnings, called Entire. By 1800, it was brewed, and consumed, in vast quantities (one fermenting vessel was the site of a dinner for 200 in 1790!). By 1900 it had seen its offspring, Stout, be well on its own way to beer superstardom. By 1950, it had virtually disappeared. It is: Porter. Few comebacks in the history of beer rival that of Porter, once the toast of London, although German Weizenbier and Belgian Witbier have undergone their own remarkable revivals. Porter's re-emergence as an important beer style is largely due to the efforts of the fans of such traditional brews, including, yes, home brewers. In fact, I can think of no group that holds Porter in higher esteem than those who brew their own. Frankly, that's very appropriate. The earliest champions of the beer that would become Porter were those who lent it their name--the manual laborers of the days just before the Industrial Revolution known, then as now, as porters. The beer they favored was a satisfying, stronger-than-average, quenching reward for hard physical work done well, and any brewer knows that there is plenty of physical labor involved in maintaining and using even a home-scale brewery. Perhaps due to its heritage as a blend of different worts or even of different draught ales, Porter has often been described as the most variable of beer styles. This makes generalizations about the style rather difficult. Certainly, no one disputes that it is a very dark-colored beer. It is usually an ale, certainly so in the English and Irish traditions, but has been fermented as a lager or with lager yeast from Poland to Pennsylvania. It tends to be bigger, darker and drier in flavor than a Brown Ale, yet less full-bodied and creamy than most Stouts. In short, every brewery's Porter seems to be a unique product. In the Maltose Falcons Competition Style Guidelines, we recognize the two main brewing regions for the style which are best represented in our local marketplace, as follows: Porter. Substyles: a. British Porter: A dark ale said to have been originally a blend of different beers. Perhaps the most variable of beer styles, most versions fall somewhere between Stout and Brown Ale in their style characteristics: fairly full body, a chocolatey or cffee-like dryness from the distinctive roastiness of dark roasted malts, a fruity aroma and flavor provided by ale yeast, and definite hop character that balances, but does not overwhelm, these other factors. Color is very dark brown to black. Preferred gravities do not exceed 1.058 or so, frequently lower, although historical versions may have been stronger than this. Most are brewed from rather hard water. Although some sweetness may be present on the palate, these beers usually finish dry in flavor and aftertaste. O.G. 1.048-1.058, I.B.U. 25-55, alcohol 4.5-6.0% v/v. Commercial examples: Young's London Porter (U.K.), Samuel Smith's Taddy Porter (U.K.). b. American Porter: Most American versions of Porter reflect a penchant for drier, roastier malt flavors, prominent use of hops throughout, and a higher alcohol level than British Porter, supported by a fairly full body. Some versions are brewed with lager yeast for a softer flavor profile. O.G. 1.050-1.065, I.B.U. 30-70, alcohol 4.5-7.0% v/v. Commercial examples: Sierra Nevada Porter (U.S.), Anchor Porter (u.S.), Yuengling Porter (U.S.), Rogue New Porter (U.S.). An excellent reference on the history of Porter, which is literally a history of brewing in the British Isles over the last 300 years, is the eponymous book Porter, by Terry Foster (Brewers Publications Classic Beer Style Series #5, 1992). The sheer scale of London-area brewing in general, and of Porter in particular, which was taking place at the time of the American Revolution as recounted in this book, will astonish you! I'm starting to get thirsty, since writing this article is hard work, so let's brew some gruesome beer! Here is the First Place Porter recipe from the 1995 Mayfire Competition, a British Porter brewed by Paul Sedgwick: "Paul's Porter V," by Paul Sedgwick: for 5 gallons: Grains: 9 lbs. English pale malt. 1 lb. Munich malt. 1 lb. chocolate malt. 1/2 lb. 80L. Crystal malt. 1/2 lb. Scottish carastan malt. 1/8 lb. Black Patent malt. 1/4 lb. Roast Barley. Hops: Northern Brewer leaf, 1 oz. boiled 60 min. 1/2 oz. Kent Goldings leaf, boiled 30 min. 1 oz. Kent Goldings leaf, boiled 10 min. Yeast: Wyeast Special London Ale, in 1 quart starter. Water: Filtered tap water. Procedure: Single step infustion mash at 154 F. with 4 gallons water at 165 F. , rest 90 min.; heat to 170 F., rest 5 min.; sparge with 170 F. water to collect 6.5 gallons. Sparge time 45 min. 80 min. total boil time. Aerate 30 min. before pitching yeast. Ferment primary 7 days at 68 F. Bottle with 3/4 cup corn sugar to prime. O.G. 1.061, F.G. 1.019. Another First Place Porter, from another of our best brewers, is this American Porter recipe based on extract malt, from the 1996 Mayfaire Competition, and the name is perfect for this month's column: "New Year Porter," by Bruce Wenzel: For 6 gallons: Grains: 2/3 lb. chocolate malt. 1/3 lb. Black Patent malt. Extracts: 4 3.4 lbs. British light dry extract malt. 3 lbs. British dark dry extract malt. Adjuncts: 1 lb. lactose (really??). Hops: 2 oz. Hallertauer, boiled 60 min. 1/2 oz. Tettnanger, boiled 60 min. 1 oz. Tettnanger, boiled 10 min. 1/2 oz. Tettnanger, added at fire off. Yeast: Wyeast #1084 Irish Ale, no starter, just one package. Water: Vending machine drinking water amended with 2 teaspoons gypsum. Procedure: Steeped grains at 150 F. for 45 min, strained into boil pot. 60 min. total boil time, 3-gallons concentrated boil, then added water to 6 gallons. two-stage fermentation at 68 F. Bottled with a mixture of 1 quart gyle and additional corn sugar. O.G. 1.068, F.G. 1.028. Well, that's all for now. Until next time, keep floatin' into 1997, and go brew some gruesome Porter, and don't forget to reward yourself with one after brewing!
|
